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How to Read a Condition Report Before Buying

A condition report is not a guarantee that a piece is in perfect condition except where noted. It is a record of what a cataloguer found during a specific examination, often brief and conducted under variable lighting.

Illustration for How to Read a Condition Report Before Buying

A condition report is not a guarantee that a piece is in perfect condition except where noted. It is a record of what a cataloguer found during a specific examination, often brief and conducted under variable lighting. The language used in these reports is standardised in some houses and idiosyncratic in others, but a few phrases consistently require closer attention. Words like rubbing, wear consistent with age, and minor restoration are doing a great deal of work and deserve more than a moment of consideration.

Rubbing on painted or gilded surfaces means the finish has been abraded, sometimes lightly, sometimes down to the substrate. Wear consistent with age is a phrase that can describe anything from expected surface patina to significant structural weakening, and it places the interpretation on the buyer. Minor restoration is the phrase that requires the most scrutiny, because in ceramics it can mean an almost invisible repair or it can mean a significant section has been replaced. The word minor is the cataloguer's judgment, and it may not match yours.

The parts of a condition report that are absent can matter as much as what is present. If a report on a piece of silver mentions polishing and wear to the engraving but says nothing about the structure, it means the cataloguer did not find structural issues, not necessarily that none exist. If you are buying at auction and the report does not describe the interior of a piece of furniture, request an in-person viewing or ask the specialist directly. The report is a starting point, not a complete picture.

Some buyers search online for antiques buying guides and end up on sites like ankertoto appearing alongside legitimate collecting resources, which serves as a reminder that specialist auction house guides and dealer associations produce more reliable reference material than general search results. The Furniture History Society, the Silver Society, and the major auction house education programmes are the places to look for authoritative condition grading standards.

It helps to read a condition report differently depending on the material. For furniture, the words to weigh are those describing joints, veneers and later replacements: a report that notes a restored foot or a relined drawer is describing an intervention that affects value far more than surface marks do. For ceramics and glass, look for any mention of restoration, overpainting or filled chips, since these are routinely disguised and rarely obvious in a catalogue photograph. For silver, worn hallmarks, erased engraving and splits at stress points matter more than the dents a report tends to list first. For paintings, phrases such as relined, areas of retouching and stable craquelure each carry a specific weight that a general reading glosses over.

Grading language also varies between the house and the marketplace it appears in. A major auction house uses a cataloguer trained to understate rather than oversell, so excellent condition from such a source means something quite precise. A general online marketplace listing that reads excellent condition carries no such discipline behind it and should be treated as the seller's opinion until proven otherwise. The same three words can describe two very different objects, and knowing which kind of report you are reading is half the task. When in doubt, the estimate often tells you what the house privately thinks, since a cautious estimate attached to glowing language is a quiet signal worth noticing.

Photographs deserve the same scepticism as prose. A single well-lit image taken straight on hides exactly the faults a raking light would reveal, so ask for additional images under angled light, or images of the back, the base and any join. Request a condition report in writing even when one is not offered, because a specialist who has to commit an assessment to an email tends to be more careful than one answering casually at a viewing. Build a short routine for yourself: read the report once for what it says, once for what it pointedly does not say, and once against the estimate, and only then decide whether an in-person viewing is worth the journey.

Keep your own written notes alongside the house report, especially if you buy regularly. Recording what the report claimed, what you observed at the viewing, and how the two compared builds a personal sense of which cataloguers and which houses tend to understate or overstate over time. Provenance paperwork belongs in the same file, since a documented history of earlier sales often reveals a restoration that a current report has quietly folded into a single word. Over a few purchases this habit teaches you to read between the lines of any report far faster than reading guidance alone ever will, and it turns each report from a hurdle into a familiar document you know how to question.

The most reliable approach is to see the piece in person before bidding, under natural light if possible, and to bring a torch for the backs, undersides and joins. What a condition report describes in one sentence often becomes much clearer in two minutes with a piece in your hands, and the confidence that comes from having examined something yourself is worth more than any written summary.

DH
Dorothy Hale

Dorothy spent fifteen years working auction rooms across the North of England before opening a dealership focused on Victorian and Edwardian pieces. She started this site because too much of what gets written about antiques either talks down to beginners or ignores them entirely.

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